“HOKA’s strategic moves to broaden its customer reach have seen its presence grow in the market, noting in stock options at END Clothing were up by 154%, 66% at Zappos and 44% at DICK’S Sporting Goods versus 2022. On a relatable level, brands such as HOKA, Cecilie Bahnsen and its ASICS collaboration, and On are having a moment of their own, each following on from the high-end ugly footwear buzz. Per EDITED, “Chunky sandals have been a failsafe investment area over the past few seasons, with the inflatable trend giving renewed interest to the category.” Upping the ante is the Barbiecore craze “Barbiecore offered mass market retailers an entry to the trend, with hot pinks accounting for 67% of pink sell-outs of heels.” You can start with a foolproof essential. However, much like the dad shoe trend of the late 2010s, ugly footwear is everywhere you look, applicable and available to everyone of all tastes. Such shoes are often spotted on a celebrity - partly because they’re the clientele who can afford said silhouette, but largely because of the virality that comes with wearing it. Cast your mind back even further, and you’ll remember Vetements‘ highlighter heels, Balenciaga‘s spring-suspended X-Pander sneaker, and the MSCHF Big Red Boot. Jonathan Anderson takes his kitsch attitude to his work at the Spanish fashion House, LOEWE, where he has produced heels covered in deflated balloons and pumps sitting on an inflated balloon. Albeit opinion-splitting, there’s no denying that this level of fun has permeated the footwear game. Think JW Anderson x Wellipets, the frog-faced clogs that came as part of the designer’s Men’s Autumn Winter 23/Women’s Pre-Fall 23 show. However, over the past two seasons, there has been a resurgence in creativity that’s transcended the runway, gone on to become a viral sensation, landed in stores, and found itself on the feet of people who eschew a “ Quiet Luxury” aesthetic. One man’s trash is another man’s Maison Margiela Tabi Boot. “Ugly” is a strong word, and it’s particularly divisive when it comes to describing shoes.
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